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Ray Gascoigne's Bottled Art

Woah!  It has been a while since I've posted anything.  I've been busy shooting and editing, as well as changing up the look of the site.  (As I'm sure you can see!)  I was really trying to blog every day and share something interesting I have found or am doing but I've realized it is too much to handle on top of everything else.  So here we are now.  I am committing to Fresh Art Friday.  I will be sharing an amazing video or photos of some interesting art every Friday.  I will be updating the blog with some behind the scenes stuff and other tidbits when I can as well.  

Anyways, sit back and enjoy this video of Ray Gascoigne.  He has been creating bottled ships for nearly 60 years and is truly a master of his craft.  I think there is something we can all take away from this video.

Also, be on the lookout for a giveaway from one of our partners in the near future.  You don't want to miss out on this one!

Behind the Scenes - The Shining

I really really really love Kubrick films.  I can't even begin to express how much I am obsessed with his work.  So when I saw these behind the scenes photos, I just had to share them.

Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick
Stanley Kubrick

Andrew Myers' Screw Portraits

It has been a while!  Been busy with upgrading some equipment recently and haven't had time to really sit down and write.  

Anyways. check out these portraits by Andrew Myers.  They are made by attaching screws to a piece of wood at various heights and then painting the screw head one by one.  Pretty unique work and the end results are outstanding.

Houston Fashion Photographer
Houston Fashion Photographer
Houston Fashion Photographer
Houston Fashion Photographer

Andy Warhol's Shoes

Randomly came upon this photo of Andy Warhol's feet/shoes.  I love dress shoes that have obviously been worn.  This fits the bill perfectly.

Andy Warhol

My First 4x5 Photograph!

Here we have it!  My first 4x5 Photo that has turned out how I like it.  It will take time to get all of the processes down but I am happy with it.   It is a double exposure of my bike in the yard and some leaves from a tree.  

Toy Stories - Gabriel Galimberti

Love this series of photographs by Gabriele Galimberti.  Capturing children all over the world's "Prized Possessions".  I love the simplicity and organized nature of the shots.  And it is great to see the contrast between the children from well off countries vs. those from poorer areas of the world.

4x5 Photography - Loading Film Holders

Continued from Part 3...

Now that all of our chemicals are prepared for developing it is time to load the film holders and make some frames to develop.    To do this you will need your film of choice  (I went with Kodak Tri-x 320), Film Holders, a brush of some sort, and darkness.


Film Holders and Brush

Film Holders and Brush

Begin by removing all of the slides and putting them to the side.  Then tap the holders against the side of a table or something and brush them all out with a brush of some sort.  Then you will want to also brush off the slides as well.  It is also a good time to organize them so they are all facing the correct direction.  All of this part can be done with the light on.

Holders with slides removed

Holders with slides removed

Next up we want to prepare the holders for the film.  The best way that I have found to do it is to put the slides in about 3/4 of the way.  But make sure you can still feel the tabs that the film slides under so you can check in the dark to make sure it is loaded correctly. The first time I did this I made the mistake of removing the slide completely in the dark.  They are not fun to try to put back in the holder without being able to see, trust me.

Holder prepared for film

Holder prepared for film

NOW TURN THE LIGHTS OFF!  For real, I am warning you.  If this part isn't done in complete darkness your film will be ruined and you will be wasting your time.  I use an extra bathroom with no windows to do this part.  I tape up the door with duct tape and do it strictly at night.  I also tell my roommates I am about to do it so they don't turn hall lights on until I am finished.  There is nothing worse than spending the time loading the film, setting up shots, developing the film, and then seeing that the film was ruined.  The pictures in this post from here forward are using previously exposed film so you can see what you need to be doing.  

Anyways, now you need to open up your film box and get ready to load the film.  The emulsion is only on one side of the film and you need to make sure that it is facing out otherwise your photo won't turn out.  The way to do this is to find the cutouts on the film.  As far as I know it is all the same, and the cutouts need to be in the top right or bottom left but make sure you check your film manufacturer before doing this.

4x5 Negative Cutouts

4x5 Negative Cutouts

Next you are going to slide the film into the holder very carefully making sure it is right side up.  I usually put the holder on the table with the bottom facing away from me and hold the film in my right hand making sure the cutouts are in the top right.

Loading film into holder

Loading film into holder

Now when the holder is upright the cutouts will be in the bottom left.  Once you get the film slide in a little ways, I like to check the tabs on the side of the holder to make sure that the film is seated correctly.

Properly Seated Film

Properly Seated Film

Once you are sure that the film is seated correctly flip up the bottom piece and push the slide all the way in.  You can also lock the slide in if you would like now.  But make sure that you check the locks again once they are all loaded and the lights are on.

Slide closed and film ready to go!

Slide closed and film ready to go!

Just continue to repeat these steps until you are finished with all your holders.  The first time I did this it took quiet a while to get the motions down in the dark but now that I have done it a couple of times it goes relatively quick.

For now this series of how-tos are finished.  I will be sharing some of the images that I make here on the blog and may go into a tutorial on how I "scan" the film with a DSLR, as well as some various development testing and what not.  Thanks for reading and if you have any questions feel free to comment or send me an email!

Design advice from a Designer

Frank Chimero just answered the question on his blog; What advice would you give to a Graphic Design student?  He answered with everything he knows about graphic design and in no sort of order or format.  It is a beautiful read and can be applied to lots of different industries and life.  Have a read:

Design does not equal client work.

It’s hard to make purple work in a design. The things your teachers tell you in class are not gospel. You will get conflicting information. It means that both are wrong. Or both are true. This never stops. Most decisions are gray, and everything lives on a spectrum of correctness and suitability.

Look people in the eyes when you are talking or listening to them. The best teachers are the ones who treat their classrooms like a workplace, and the worst ones are the ones who treat their classroom like a classroom as we’ve come to expect it. Eat breakfast. Realize that you are learning a trade, so craft matters more than most say. Realize that design is also a liberal art. Quiet is always an option, even if everyone is yelling. Libraries are a good place. The books are free there, and it smells great.

If you can’t draw as well as someone, or use the software as well, or if you do not have as much money to buy supplies, or if you do not have access to the tools they have, beat them by being more thoughtful. Thoughtfulness is free and burns on time and empathy.

The best communicators are gift-givers.

Don’t become dependent on having other people pull it out of you while you’re in school. If you do, you’re hosed once you graduate. Keep two books on your nightstand at all times: one fiction, one non-fiction.

Buy lightly used. Patina is a pretty word, and a beautiful concept.

Develop a point of view. Think about what experiences you have that many others do not. Then, think of what experiences you have that almost everyone else has. Then, mix those two things and try to make someone cry or laugh or feel understood.

Design doesn’t have to sell. Although, that’s usually its job.

Think of every project as an opportunity to learn, but also an opportunity to teach. Univers is a great typeface and white usually works and grids are nice and usually necessary, but they’re not a style. Helvetica is nice too, but it won’t turn water to wine.

Take things away until you cry. Accept most things, and reject most of your initial ideas. Print it out, chop it up, put it back together. When you’re aimlessly pushing things around on a computer screen, print it out and push it around in real space. Change contexts when you’re stuck. Draw wrong-handed and upside down and backwards. Find a good seat outside.

Design is just a language, it’s not a message. If you say “retro” too much you will get hives and maybe die. Learn your design history. Know that design changes when technology changes, and its been that way since the 1400s. Adobe software never stops being frustrating. Learn to write, and not school-style writing. A text editor is a perfectly viable design tool. Graphic design has just as much to do with words as it does with pictures, and a lot of my favorite designers come to design from the world of words instead of the world of pictures.

If you meet a person who cares about the same obscure things you do, hold on to them for dear life. Sympathy is medicine.

Scissors are good, music is better, and mixed drinks with friends are best. Start brave and brash: you can always make things more conservative, but it’s hard to make things more radical. Edit yourself, but let someone else censor you. When you ride the bus, imagine that you are looking at everything from the point of view of someone else on the ride. If you walk, look up on the way there and down on the way back. Aesthetics are fleeting, the only things with longevity are ideas. Read Bringhurst and one of those novels they made you read in high school cover to cover every few years. (Of Mice and Men, To Kill a Mockingbird, The Great Gatsby.)

Stop trying to be cool: it is stifling.

Most important things happen at a table. Food, friends, discussion, ideas, work, peace talks, and war plans. It is okay to romanticize things a little bit every now and then: it gives you hope.

Everything is interesting to someone. That thing that you think is bad is probably just not for you. Be wary of minimalism as an aesthetic decision without cause. Simple is almost a dirty word now. Almost. Tools don’t matter very much, all you need is a sharp knife, but everyone has their own mise en place. If you need an analogy, use an animal. Red, white, black, and gray always go together. Negative space. Size contrast. Directional contrast. Compositional foundations.

Success is generating an emotion. Failure is a million different things. Second-person writing is usually heavy-handed. All of this is too.

Seeking advice is addicting and can become a proxy for action. Giving it can also be addicting in a potentially pretentious, soul-rotting sort of way, and can replace experimenting because you think you know how things work. Be suspicious of lists, advice, and lists of advice.

I have no idea what I'm doing, and everyone is just making it up as they go along.

This about sums up everything I know.

4x5 Photography - Mixing your Chemistry

Continued from Part 2...

So now that I have all of my supplies (I think!) it is time to move on to getting my chemistry ready and making some photos!  

I decided to go with D-76 as my developer due to its low price and easy availability locally to myself.  I may change at a later date but while I am getting used to the developing process I know I will be wasting a lot of chemicals and would rather lose out on cheap stuff than the expensive developers.    For stop bath I am going to just use filtered water for the time being.  Nothing I will be doing for a while is that critical so this also cuts down on the costs a bit.  And after reading various articles, it seems that the differences between stop bath and using water are minimal.   For Fixer I went with Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener.

Darkroom Chemistry

Darkroom Chemistry

To store the chemicals, I am using empty red wine bottles.  I've read that the chemicals don't need to be kept light safe but I figure it wouldn't hurt.  So go get yourself some wine and drink it up and wash out the bottles.  Or if you don't drink wine, like myself, get your significant other to drink the wine and make yourself a whiskey coke!

The D-76 is very easy to mix up.  All you need is 3 liters of water at 122-131 degrees F.  But you should know that seeing as the instructions are right there on the bag!

D-76 Directions

D-76 Directions

Since the Developer is the most critical component in the developing process I picked up some Distilled water from Target to mix it up with.  This step can be skipped in some places with good tap water or if you are really lazy I guess.  But I went ahead and mixed it up the right way.

Distilled Water, Less than a dollar a gallon

Distilled Water, Less than a dollar a gallon

I used a measuring cup and measured out 800ml of water from the gallon and put it to the side, that way the remaining water in the gallon was 3L. So put your 3 liters of the water into a large pot on the stove and turn it on at a medium heat and get your thermometer handy so you can keep an eye on the water temperature.

Temperature at 120F

Temperature at 120F

Once your water reaches 122 Degrees F go ahead and dump your D-76 powder and mix it all up until you can no longer see any powder.  It takes quiet a bit of mixing so be patient.  I used a whisk to do this.

Dumping in the D-76

Dumping in the D-76

Stirring the Developer

Stirring the Developer

Once you finish stirring it up, you will want to return it to the Gallon of water before distributing it into your Wine Bottles.  If you remember on the package it says it makes one gallon but when you mix it up in the pot you are only using 3L of water.  That is why we set aside the 800ml at the beginning.  We will combine both of these now to make our full gallon.  I just used a funnel and put it back in the Gallon of water and mixed it that way.  

Don't forget to label your bottles!

Don't forget to label your bottles!

Unfortunately I didn't have enough Wine Bottles so I left some in the gallon of water and will be sure to use it first.  Make sure you label your bottles and put the date on them when you mixed them up so you know how old they are.  So now you have "Stock" D-76 developer ready to use.  When you actually use the developer, to make it last longer you will mix it 1:1 with water (Remember this step!)  Also when you mix 1:1 your develop times will be different so make sure you refer to the instructions for the correct time for your film.

Next up we want to mix our Fixer and get it in the wine bottles as well.   Once again refer to the instructions on how to do this.  For my particular Fixer it involved mixing the two bottles as well as distilled water while agitating.  I didn't really get any pictures of this portion but it isn't hard and you should have no problem doing it.  As last time, fill and label your bottles and move them to your darkroom area.

Kodak Rapid Fixer

Kodak Rapid Fixer

Next up we will look at loading holders and making the first photograph!

Watch this Movie! - The Fall

Just recently finished watching "The Fall" directed by Tarsem Singh on Netflix Streaming.  What a breathtaking movie!  I recommend everyone take some time this week and sit down and watch it.  This is what film should be about.  Every shot is ripe with detail and I feel like it is one of those titles that you can watch over and over again and always pick up something new.   Now to hunt it down on Blu-Ray for my collection.   Check out the trailer below!

4x5 Photography - Film Developing

Continued from Part 1...

So now I have to devise a plan on how I am going to develop my film here at my house.  I have a spare bathroom I can use as a dark room but I have absolutely zero supplies to do so and prefer to make my own things instead of buying them.  

First up I need to make a tank for the chemicals and film to go in to.  I had the idea of using PVC pipe.  So off I went to Lowes to try to come up with a solution.

Development Tank Materials

Development Tank Materials

I came back with the shortest piece of 4" PVC pipe I could find as well as some water tight plugs for both ends.  One end will stay fixed to the tube while the other will be taken on and off to change out chemicals.  Next step was to cut it down to a more manageable size.

Development Tank in Progress

Development Tank in Progress

So I poured myself a drink and got to cutting.  Unfortunately the saw I had wasn't very good so my cut is pretty crooked.  But I decided to go on and see how it worked before making another pass at it.  It may not end up affecting the seal and will just be a cosmetic thing.

Development Tank in Progress

Development Tank in Progress

Here we have all the sharp edges sanded down and then I cleaned it with soap and water to ensure no dust remained.  Time to test the seal!

Development Tank in Progress

Development Tank in Progress

And like I hoped it is leak free!  Now is a good time to test how much chemical you will need to put in each time.  This is also the reason we cut it down in the first place to make sure the volume is low enough to be manageable and that the film is completely covered by your chemical.  For my tank I use 500ml of liquid to cover the film.  Which, from what I can tell, is what most store bought tanks will need.

Finished Tank plus Measuring Cups

Finished Tank plus Measuring Cups

And there we have the finished tank drying on the window sill after a good cleaning.  Also we have 3 measuring cups. 2x500ml and 1x1000ml being dried after a clean as well.  I purchased these before I made the tank and luckily they ended up being the perfect size for my tank.  The 2x500ml cups will be used to hold the Developer and the Fixer.  The 1000ml will hold distilled water to be used in place of Stop Bath.  I plan on doing 2 30 second cycles of distilled water.  So I will dump roughly half the water in and agitate for 30 seconds, then remove it and repeat before moving onto the fixer.

Continue to Part 3...